Madeira one week itinerary

Madeira has been on my must-visit list for a while now. I’ve heard only good things about this beautiful Portuguese island, and I wasn’t disappointed!

Madeira is often compared to the Hawaii of Europe, and for a good reason. This isolated island in the Atlantic ocean has lush green mountains, steep cliffs, a rugged coast and a mild climate that can be visited throughout the year.

From Amsterdam a direct flight took me straight to Madeira, arriving at 9.30 AM, perfect timing to immediately pick up my rental car and start exploring. The Cristiano Ronaldo airport is on the East side of the island, which made me decide to start on the East side too.

Miradouro da Ponta do Rosto

First is a quick stop at the viewpoint of Ponta do Rosto. And what a splendid first impression of Madeira, watching the majestic cliffs alongside the ocean.

PR8 Ponta de São Lourenço

I immediately got into action with my first hike of the trip. The PR8 took me down a rocky landscape towards the dragon’s tail, where the trail ends. The last part after passing the cafe is a steep climb up, but don’t skip it and miss out on the views.

The hike took about 1.5 hours each way, completing 6 kilometers in total with plenty of photo stops.

On this foggy day it was perfect to tour the Northeast segment of the island, visiting multiple sites and viewpoints.

Fanal Forest

On the misty tops of Madeira’s mountains is Fanal Forest. The Fanal Forest is one of the few places which hosts the last laurel trees worldwide. These old trees have these odd shapes and sizes giving them their unique character. Come early during the morning mist, giving the place a sense of mystery.

Ilhéus da Ribeira da Janela

On the Northern coast is the impressive rock formation Ribeira da Janela. Only a short walk from the parking and around the cliffs where you’re suddenly emerged in this unworldly sight.

Seixal Beach

The Seixal volcanic black sand beach is a must visit when in Madeira. It’s one of the few sandy beaches on the island, with a stunning backdrop.

Miradouro do Véu da Noiva
This tall waterfall next to the road is a quick stop from Seixal.

Miradouro de São Cristovão

One of my favorite viewpoints in Madeira. This site is actually a restaurant, resulting in no massive tourists crowds. Order a drink and enjoy the best view.

PR6 Levada das 25 Fontes & Risco

One of the popular levada hikes is 25 Fontes. This fairly easy hike is 8 kilometers in total and takes about 3 hours. Combine it with a short detour to Risco, which is only an additional 15 minutes to the waterfall and backtrack to the original trail.

The path along the levadas can be rather narrow, therefore I definitely recommend arriving at the parking lot around 8 AM. I was one of the first people there and had the trail completely to myself, just me and nature having a good time. At the end of the trail I was welcomed by a gorgeous waterfall.

On the route back is when I encountered the other hikers, often having to make way along the narrow passages.

From the parking lot to the start of the trail you first go down a tarmac road for about 1.5 kilometers (25 minute walk). From 10 AM a shuttle bus (€5 one way) operates on this route. On arrival I walked down the tarmac road, and upon return I gladly used the shuttle bus back up.

Miradouro do Teleférico das Achadas da Cruz

On Madeira’s Northeast coast you’ll find a small cable car in Achadas da Cruz. The cable car (only €5 round-trip) is one of the steepest rides from the cliff down to the coast below. This area used to be farmland but is now completely abandoned, which gives the place an eerie feeling.

Miradouro do Farol da Ponta do Pargo

Finish the day at the lighthouse Ponta do Pargo at the furthest West point of Madeira. Watch the magnificent cliffs from this viewpoint.

PR1 Pico do Arieiro

Climbing the Pico de Arieiro is a must-do on any Madeira itinerary. The PR1 path is marked as one of the most beautiful hikes in Europe.

Because of the altitude on the top of the mountains, be sure to get here on a clear sunny day for the best views. As it would be an absolute shame to be up in the clouds and not being able to take in Madeira’s stunning surroundings.

In November 2024 part of the PR1 trail was closed due to the wildfires last summer, hence I could only walk 1.7 kilometers up to Pedra Rija. Nonetheless the views were absolutely fantastic.

PR11 Miradouro dos Balcões

A very short and easy hike is from the town Ribeiro Frio to Balcões, a 360 panorama viewpoint of the valley around.

PR9 Levada do Caldeirão Verde

Another long but worthwhile hike along the levadas. PR9 Levada Caldeirão Verde is a 13 kilometer (round-trip) hike to the waterfall and back. The trail is mostly flat and takes you along steep cliffs, lush waterfalls and through 4 tunnels. Bring a torch or use the flashlight of your phone to navigate through the dark tunnels.

The second half of the hike is especially astonishing; this is not a place for those who experience vertigo as you walk the narrow levada paths along the cliff.

At the end of a 2 hour walk awaits the longest waterfall with a pool to potentially take a refreshing dip in. After a moment of relaxation it’s time to return on the same trail. By now the groups of other hikers have joined and will need to pass.

To walk the PR9 I advise to be at the car park around 8 AM, to guarantee yourself of a parking spot and more importantly, to be completely alone on the trail. It’s a paid parking of €2 an hour and you’ll pay cash at the ticket machine upon return.

PR1.2 Pico Ruivo

If you’re up for another hike? I sure wasn’t but I did it anyway :), as it’s only a short drive to Pico Ruivo.

The other day I couldn’t walk the entire PR1 trail from Pico Arieiro to Pico Ruivo with the route being partially closed. I used this bright day to finish the final part to Pico Ruivo.

It’s already late afternoon and the morning hikers to Pico Ruivo have called it a day, giving me a spot at the car park. It’s a 1 hour / 2.8 km walk up to Pico Ruivo. As my feet are still sore from the previous hike, I stick through and make the climb to the top. I’m extremely happy I did with more thrilling views of the landscape and clouds below.

Miradouro do Guindaste

It’s sunset and I make a last photo stop at Miradouro do Guindaste. From this viewpoint I have a crystal clear view of Madeira’s dragon’s tail in the East. The new glass sky bridges also give an impressive lookout over the vast ocean.

Funchal

After experiencing all the gorgeous scenery Madeira has to offer, it is a perfect moment to have a relaxing day sightseeing Funchal.

Wander around the old center, stroll along the promenade and witness the huge cruise ships docked in the harbor, visit Fé cathedral and look but don’t buy the fresh produce at the Mercado dos Lavradores. And most importantly, have a seat on the terrace in Zona Velha and enjoy people watching with a glass of sangria as the day flies by. At the end of Rua de Santa Maria is the bright yellow Forte São Tiago.

Monte
Take the cable car from the old center in Funchal or drive the car up to Monte. As the queue for the cable car was quite long, I opted for the latter.

Monte Tropical Gardens

Next to the cable car station is the Monte Tropical Gardens with an entrance fee of €15. Hosting a variety of tropical plants, interesting art in a beautiful lush garden.

Toboggan ride

The very popular toboggan ride has its starting point at the Monte. Two local drivers take you in a basket down the steep and narrow streets of Funchal.

To experience the toboggan ride you have to be willing to wait in an extremely long line. I simply enjoyed watching others go down.

On the last day I used the morning to view the wonders of the South coast.

Cabo Girão Skywalk

The famous glass skywalk is an immensely popular attraction. The entrance fee of €2 gives a view of the cliffs below and the cities Câmara dos Lobos and Funchal. After already seeing so many astonishing viewpoints, I personally was a bit underwhelmed.

Cascata dos Anjos

Angels Waterfall is a waterfall that splashes directly on the coastal road. Although the road is closed for cars nowadays, you can park closeby on the Northwest side of the fall and walk the last bit.

Strolling the promenade do Lido
As I was staying in the hotel zone on the West of Funchal, I used my spare hours to have a relaxing stroll along the Promenade do Lido towards Formosa Beach.

The best way to get around the island is by far your own rental car. If you’re not able to drive, there is a decent public bus system and many tour operators in Funchal who offer tours to all the popular hiking areas and viewpoints.

But nothing beats having your own set of wheels! I love having the ability to start the day before the busloads of other tourists. Plus the freedom to plan your own day and timetable is priceless.

Be mindful that the roads in Madeira are in excellent condition, but can be narrow and steep. The parking areas at the popular destinations are limited, hence to start either early morning or late afternoon.

Stay in Funchal as your main base and plan the days from there. What I enjoyed about having one place is that I could plan my days according to the weather and my personal mood. From Funchal I was able to decide per day where to go. When booking various destinations across the island you’re more set on a fixed itinerary, not giving much flexibility.

I opted for a nice modern apartment in the hotel zone. A big plus is that it has its own parking space and it was easy for me to get out of the city from here.

From the hotel zone there are frequent buses towards Funchal’s old center. Grab bus 1, 2 or 4 and pay €1,95 in cash to the bus driver.

Since October 2024 there is a €3 fee on all the popular trails, including those mentioned in my itinerary. You can buy a ticket online or buy a ticket with cash at the start of the trail.

When starting early, the gatekeepers haven’t arrived yet and you can avoid buying a ticket. When starting late in the day, they’ll run out of paper tickets and will make you order one online to let you pass.

Use Google Maps to navigate the island by car. I always download the offline Google maps too, in case I don’t have any service.

Definitely use the app maps.me and download Madeira for detailed maps of all the hiking trails. Even when there no online connection, the GPS will give you a perfect location of where you are on the trail. Even though the trails are very well sign posted, I always like to double check if I’m going in the right direction.