From mainland Taiwan I’m taking a break for a few days to hop on the ferry to Xiaoliuqiu (pronounced: she-ao lee-o chee-o). A small coral island on the southwest of Taiwan.
The island is known for its giant sea turtles swimming close to the shore, and I wanted to witness these magnificent creatures myself. You can opt to join a snorkel tour, but the cheaper and more fun option is renting snorkeling gear and exploring independently. I asked the rental shop where I have a good chance to spot the turtles and they gave a few suggestions based on the high or low tide.
In the end I’m stubborn and I stop by multiple beaches without a fixed plan. Along the shore of Beauty Beach I stumbled across this enormous sea turtle. Just him, me and the ocean. And luckily for a moment a very cool Taiwanese guy who made this short video.
Things to do at Xiaoliuqiu
Besides the beach life and underwater world, the island can be explored on a scooter (or e-scooter for those without a motorcycle license and IDP).
Start from Baisha, the main town in the north. The ferry arrives here and pick-up a scooter (NT$400 per day) at one of the many rental shops. From here you can make a counterclockwise loop and explore the island.
Here’s a list of interesting spots along the loop to explore. Some are just for a quick stop, while others are worth sticking around.
Baisha village – Vase Rock Beach – Beauty Cave – Beauty Beach – Shanfu Harbor – Wild Boar Ditch – Geban Bay (Venice Beach) – Black Dwarf Cave – Blue Sea Pavillion – Yongan Bridge Ruins – Sunset Pavillion – Guanyin Rock – Banyan Tree – White Lighthouse – Secret Beach – Dafu Harbor – Biyin Temple – Bamboo Ecology Pond – Sunrise Pavillion – Lobster Cave – Yufu Fishing Harbor – Zhongao Beach.
My personal favorite stops
Vase Rock Beach (花瓶石)
Probably the most iconic place of Xiaoliuqiu. The rock formation on this tiny beach stands out. Plenty of snorkeling tours go here to view the turtles, it can be a bit crowded though.
Beauty Cave (美人洞), Wild Boar Ditch (山豬溝) & Black Dwarf Cave (烏鬼洞)
The three caves spread across the island are relatively short scenic trails through caves and forest with occasional coastal lookouts. The ticket at the counter for NT$120 allows access to all three cave areas. As you probably pass Beauty Cave first, buy the ticket there and keep it on you to show at the other entrances.
Venice Beach (威尼斯海灘)
Around sunset I settled down at this secluded beach with beautiful white sand.
Shanfu Harbor (杉福漁港)
One of the better places for swimming is Shanfu Harbor, the area is safely sheltered from the open sea and it’s all sand, as most beaches at Xiaoliuqiu are covered with rocks too.
Secret Beach (厚石魚澳)
The name of the beach sounds more mysterious than it actually is. Before arrival at the beach, go up the road to Banyan Tree for the best view of this beach.
Zhongao Beach (中澳沙灘)
When finishing the entire loop you come across Zhongao Beach. This beach is close to the ferry terminal and within walking distance when staying in Baisha Village. This is the largest sandy beach on Xiaoliuqiu and together with Shanfu Harbor the best place for swimming. With Zhongao Beach definitely giving off more beach vibes. Because of its location and pure beauty it can be crowded. I visited at the end of the day without crowds and enjoyed swimming, snorkeling and simply relaxing here to the fullest.
Where to stay
If you have a scooter, you can stay anywhere at Xiaoliuqiu, as it’s only a 10 minute drive from North to South. I had a wonderful stay with a gorgeous room at 白海民宿. The hotel is very close to Shanfu Harbor, one of the better areas for swimming. And only a 5 minute drive from Baisha village.
If you don’t have your own transportation, it might be easier to stay in Baisha village where the ferry terminal, most restaurants and stores are located.
How to get to Xiaoliuqiu
Visiting Xiaoliuqiu with public transportation needs a bit more planning. As I was coming from Chishang on the East side of Taiwan, I took the 8AM train, arriving on the island just before noon.
First from Chishang the TRA train to Fang-Liao. At Fang-Liao station I immediately could hop on bus 9117A to Donggang bus station, here I walked 10 minutes to Donggang ferry terminal. A second option is to take a taxi from Fang-Liao station to Donggang ferry terminal.
Ferries to Xiaoliuqiu depart every 30 minutes, no need to buy a ticket in advance. Get a return ticket at the counter for NT$450 and hop on the first departing ferry. Arriving at Baishawei ferry terminal.
Upon return there is a bus stop at Donggang ferry terminal for bus 9217D to Zuoying station. At Zuoying I hopped on the TRA train (not the HSR train but it’s the same station), directly to the city center of Tainan.
When doing a round trip through Taiwan by car, you probably want to take the ferry from Yanpu harbor, as there are plenty of parking spaces available here. Be aware that from this location ferries depart less frequently, only once every 2 hours, and it arrives at Dafu Harbor on Xiaoliuqiu.
Good to know
No ATMs
There are no ATMs on Xiaoliuqiu and hotels and restaurants only accept cash. Make sure you withdraw enough money before arriving on the island.
Renting a scooter
Renting a gas scooter is the best mode of transportation on the island. In Taiwan the rental shops are pretty strict about having an International Driving Permit (IDP) with an A stamp for your motorcycle license. On the island some of the rental shops at Baishawei ferry terminal can be more lenient and rent you a scooter without. Another possibility is seeking a rental shop with electric scooters, be mindful that e-scooters have less power on the hills of the island.
Best time to visit
The best time to visit Xiaoliuqiu is spring and fall. When I visited in October the weather and the water temperature were very warm and pleasant. Although it’s above 25°C the entire year.
What is the name
Xiaoliuqiu 小琉球, actually has multiple names in English. Other references you can come across are Lambai Island, Liqiu Island or Little Liuqiu. But Xiaoliuqiu is the most popular name used.
